post

Trapped in Tok

We awoke to a lot more smoke in the air than the evening before. It was thick enough for us to dig out bandannas in case it got bad. We figured we could dampen them up and breathe through them while getting through the area, if it was really bothersome. We ate breakfast at Fast Eddies, and … [Read more...]

post

North to Inuvik – Again

Unfinished business. You recall a couple of years ago Jaz and I made a run for Inuvik, Northwestern Territories, Canada. The rain and the dangerous conditions caused two fairly (I said fairly) reasonable women to call it at the Arctic Circle. لعبه ضومنة The ride (2000 miles round-trip from … [Read more...]

post

Top of the World – Alaska

Jaz’s bike wouldn’t start this morning in Dawson. Apparently it was unhappy, and some damn thing about FOB or electronic key ignition? At any rate, the little thingy needed a battery. We walked down to the gift shop/hardware store and they had one in stock! We were on the ferry and soon headed … [Read more...]

post

Chicken pot pies in Chicken, Alaska

We both lounge reluctantly in bed this morning, listening to the rain bounce off the metal roof. It has been coming down steady for hours. The weather forecast for Alaska today looks just as bleak. We need to cross high on the Top of the World Highway today because it has the potential of turning … [Read more...]

post

The Paddlewheeler Graveyard

The air horn went off in Dawson and we were concerned. The locals just ignored it, so we assumed we could too. We spent the morning washing the bikes of all the caked mud and making sure the small parts worked smoothly. We then headed over to the Paddlewheel Graveyard across the Yukon River. The … [Read more...]

post

The end of the line…

Jaz called the trip just north of the Arctic Circle. Although I still had ability, and my bike had more to offer (as well as Jaz), her bike had given everything it could give. We had a hug at the Arctic Circle and agreed to turn around 195 mile short of our 1000 mile goal. Being reasonable girls, … [Read more...]

post

The bartender said, “The beer truck showing up on time is more dependable than the sun showing up.”

With that in mind, we have decided to press north to see what we can see. Before I went to bed last night, the sun shined on the boggy roads for at least two hours. If it holds through the night, it may not be so dangerous. We have heard that the road from here to above the Arctic Circle holds up … [Read more...]

post

Still holed up under the dead head drinking Lead Dog Ale

The dead head is of course from a massive moose and is hanging over me in the bar. قوانين البلاك جاك To make matters worse, I just found out I am drinking the last bottle of dark beer in the place! The restock truck does not arrive until tomorrow. I hope I am long gone before that! I … [Read more...]

post

Two Inuvik residents (while in Dawson) ask me, “Where Are You Going?”

I say, “Inuvik.” Man Responds, “Once you get up there and see the beauty, you won’t want to come back here.” Woman Responds, “You know what You are Getting Into… Right?” This is how our day started yesterday. The road was a test. It was a test on how well I packed. It was a test … [Read more...]

post

I forgot my bra… now I know why my bike bag is so light…

I tried to pack really light for this trip; only the essentials. I believe that ultimate lite packing is only three pair of underwear: one to wear, one that is drying out from being hand-washed the night before and one pair that is dry (should you fall, say in the Yukon River). Everything beyond … [Read more...]