Tar pits, bears, and broken down on the Alcan

The day started out pretty slow. We got a late start from the Kluane B&B (rustic) on account that the owner doesn’t serve breakfast until 8AM. The weather was marginal this morning, so we opted to skip flying over the Kluane Glacier. The AM temperature was a little nippy, and I had to stop and add an extra layer. The road conditions gradually declined until they became downright dicey, even frightening.

We passed a couple up from Colorado who were both on BMWs – 1200s. This surprised me because it is rare to see a woman on a 1200. She was a little frightened about the road. It was dicey in Canada, but when you crossed the US border it got right into “Oh My God” moments several times. There were large areas that came up quickly where the asphalt was pulverized. It was like someone had laid down a sandbox of loose gravel asphalt but never rolled or pressed it down. Because it was the same color as the rest of the road, you didn’t see it until you were right on top of it. The day was tiring because you had to pay extra attention for these tar pits.

We also passed a series of “hoverers.” Hoverers are outhouses along the road that you have to use (or the mosquitoes bite your ass), but they are in such poor condition that you don’t want to actually sit on them – so you hover.  Wow! Talk about some nasty potties. I opted to actual tangle with the bugs in one case. I gave it the “Nastiest Bathroom on this Trip” award. Just outside of Beaver Creek, Yukon Territory, Canada.

Nasty bathroom of this trip

We saw bears today. Although we have seen moose, squirrels, rabbits, marmots, and beavers, we have only seen lots of bear poop (I renamed the Haines Highway the Chillskat Road). I have been riding with my Go Pro (movie camera) on for about 4 hours a day. I plan to play with the film when I get back home. I happened to catch the bears on the side of the road today. They were black bears; a mom and her cub. I passed by so fast that hey will probably be specks on the video.

Barbie is sporting a new “do.” She has also been nailed a few times on her breasts and arms with bugs, but overall she seems to be enjoying the ride.

Barbie, after 1800 miles, tied to my motorcycle!